On a spring evening in May, we went to the beautiful, tastefully decorated, and inviting Atelier Culinario to enjoy an 8-course pop-up dinner with piano accompaniment. The hosts of the evening were Lisa Thaens, who has just taken over Atelier Culinario for a year, and Pepperstudio. Behind this are the two sisters Ina & Ute, whom we have known and appreciated for a long time together with Lisa through our beloved NGO Über den Tellerrand. The musical accompaniment was provided by Wido Kim on the piano. The entire evening, the menu, and the musical accompaniment were themed around the four elements. Each new element was introduced with live piano music appropriate to that element, which opened our minds and sensitized us to the individual taste experiences.
The first course was dedicated to the element of water: an infusion of naked oats, coriander seeds, maple syrup, rosemary, and thyme. It was wonderful to start the culinary evening with something warm to drink. The coriander in it was surprising and stimulated the appetite, helping us to relax and enjoy the accompanying music.
The second course on the theme of water was: anolini/salted lemon/mint/ricotta/tomato essence with fennel/capers. A pasta that was super al dente and incredibly good. We really liked the fennel note in the tomato sauce; it was somewhat reminiscent of cough syrup, but still very good. The capers were a pure explosion of flavor, and the tomato sauce was so delicious that one of us even drank the rest with a straw so as not to waste any. And best of all: the seaweed pops.
The third course, dedicated to the element of earth (pumpernickel/horseradish cream/enoki mushrooms/black garlic), provided a salty base and reminded us of jogging in the forest. The music was a tone lower, fitting for earth. The food was delicious and fluffy. The base was creamy with crumble on top. The combination of soy sauce and horseradish was great. We’re not actually fans of pumpernickel, but it went very well with this dish.
The fourth course on the theme of earth (miso onion/beets in a salt crust/nut butter aioli/sourdough bread) featured the best beetroot we have ever eaten. The bread that accompanied it was incredible and chewy. We have never eaten such creamy aioli, and the whole dish was earthy and delicious.
The experience of eating the fifth course (Jerusalem artichoke baked in clay/chipotle dip), which represented the element of fire, evoked associations with the birth of a dinosaur. The sauce was very spicy, like a fire pit, and brought beads of sweat to our tongues. Even though this course offered such a special experience, we liked the other courses better.
For the sixth course on the theme of fire (smoked potato purée/oyster mushroom satay/beurre blanc/paprika), we all agreed that it was the best mashed potatoes we had ever eaten. Simply amazing. The nut butter melted and the oyster mushroom skewer was like it had been grilled. The taste of the mushroom really left us speechless.
The seventh course, themed around air, was a real treat. The rose-flavored cotton candy brought back childhood memories, and the rose water was well balanced, just a hint and not too much.
The eighth course, also themed around air (Buchteln/spruce tips espuma), provided a worthy conclusion. We were a little hesitant about the spruce tip ingredient beforehand, but what can we say, spruce tips have now been rehabilitated in our eyes. The Buchteln were so fluffy (I’m gonna die 😊) and the acidity in the raspberry compote went incredibly well with them. Well, yeast always works, we think.
Overall, the dinner was a culinary masterpiece for us, and we were also thoroughly impressed by the musical accompaniment. The food was delicious—we still think about it regularly—and Ina & Ute can compete with any fine dining restaurant. The service and presentation by Lisa and the entire team were warm and welcoming; everyone smiled and made sure that everyone had a wonderful evening. We left feeling full, happy, and with a warm feeling inside. And one thing is certain: we will definitely be back!
